General purpose fertilizer: veganic compost---grass clippings and fall leaves are ubiquitous ingredients...

N-riched stuff---alfalfa meal, cottonseed meal, soybean meal---organic is best I prefer alfalfa for environmental reasons, as the growing of alfalfa, a perennial legume, is wholesome for the land even when the crops are exported...not so with cotton, neither with soybeans, both annual crops....

Green manures like alfalfa, clover, vetch, all provide N---grasses will capture soluble N for later release....

P---alfalfa meal at 5-1-2 NPK is a complete fertilizer, as is compost. To prime the pump for low phosphorous soils, rock phosphate is available. Buckwheat and some other cover crops/green manures have the ability to make phosphorous more available in soils. Rock phosphate works best on slightly acidic soils.

K--most soils have plenty. Where it is short, greensand, granite dust and kelp are good K sources---banana peels are especially rich in K.

From an environmental point of view, the greatest benefits derive from capturing wastes, such as leaves, grass clippings, kitchen wastes, coffee grounds, etc, before they clog up the landfills, and turn them into plant friendly nutrient bearing compost.

In this polluted world of ours, we should worry some about what residues these materials may be carrying. A reasonable strategy for these things and for manures is, if you can't get totally pure materials you are sure of, let them compost for a good long while---a year or more is not too long---which will allow those little angels of mercy, the microbes, to break down most materials.

This holds true for lawn chemicals, things like vermicides and antibiotics in manure, and even under proper conditions, chemicals that are otherwise persistent like PCBs and chlordane.

The Talmud injoins us not to use our composted manure "until sometime after the outcast have used theirs..." These days that advice is truer than ever.

Herbivore manures are OK for the pile, carnivore manures and of course human manure (feces) must be handled with extreme care.

Thus parakeet, gerbil, hamster, guinea pig, mouse, rat, rabbit, goat and so on are good for the pile.

With all animal manures it is good to observe the Talmudic injunction---"Do not use your (composted) manure until some time after the outcasts have used theirs"

Well-aged manure is generally viewed in the horticultural literature as superior, and for the food garden I would think this would hold even more true, and prudent.

Four months is the minimum period for composting animal manures by organic certification rules, and people like Eliot Coleman prefer compost that is a year and a half old....

It is true that you can destroy all pathogens in manures by hot composting for as little as two weeks (or even less). But there is more to composting than destroying pathogens, just as there is more to a fine wine than a quick stomp thru the grape vat...:-)

Frank---has been promoting a vegetable and mineral approach in organics, which he calls Harm-Less Horticulture----the first thing is to capture and use all local materials that are suitable.....

To Sift, or Not to Sift....
That is the question.....

Here's why I sift:

I use a lot of wood chips and leaves in my compost, along with grass clippings, hedge trimmings, kitchen wastes and so forth. My compost is decidedly chunky, and sometimes I will toss in un-shredded sticks, old woody root chunks, etc....so I sift to 1/2 inch (3/4 inch would probably be OK) just to get a smoother, more consistent product for the garden.

I sift to 1/4 inch for potting and seed starting mixes, as well as for topdressing and lawn fertilizing purposes; I mix compost with alfalfa meal 2 parts to one and apply at 30 pounds per thousand square feet, for example.

People who vermicompost sift to 3/16 or 1/8, in search of egg casings and a more refined and marketable product---worm castings are a very nice fertilizer and carry a price tag commensurate with their value---check out the prices where you are...

Sifting also separates out some of the inevitable contaminants, like plastic, bits of metal, and in my view, any pockets of materials that failed to decompose...

People have recently written about their failed potatoes in maple leaves---maple leaves can be allelopathic (phytotoxic, harmful to plants) until they have decomposed---there is a little article on this in Make Compost in 14 Days, the Rodale pamphlet....

Composting, and sifting the compost, ensures that the final product will be truly finished---and if you need compost and can't wait for 2 years, sifting will help you separate the sheep from the goats---or the humic colloids from the ligno-cellulose...

However, as Ruth Stout pointed out with many a cry and a shout, sifting and even pile composting aren't really necessary at all, if you just pile up the mulch---and this works best once the soil is built up, when I believe the inch or two of compost under the mulch also takes care of any allelopathic problems that may arise...

I do note that Ruth was a hay mulcher, and that hay has more nutrients and less potentially toxic (to plants) phytochemicals than leaves, especially maple leaves...

Frank---he's not siftless, so as to compost the woody stuff, and because he likes to sift...but it isn't utterly necessary...he also has worms, so is ordering some new smaller screens to make Cantoppers with...

Kim suddenly (but not siftlessly) said:

Does anyone know why it's best to screen homemade compost? I've never done this, but am thinking maybe I should. Should I? Any opinions out there? The only reason I can think of is that if you're trying to grow root crops you don't want larger pieces getting in the way or your perfectly formed root. Other than that, is there any other reason?

Kim zone 9b, so cal Souliere wrote:

Square Foot Gardening List - http://www.flinet.com/~gallus/sqft.html 
Compost Question: I just learned that I will be able to obtain 30 gallons of free compost from the NYC parks department -- they are giving it out at a local park in about 10 days. Should I immediately use this as top dressing/mulch on my garden?

As a top dressing, go ahead. Sometimes city compost is not totally finished doing the breakdown thing and if mixed in it will tie up most available nitrogen until actually done. So I would not actually till it into the soil until fall.

Also (here in Lincoln NE) city compost can contain all sorts of odd things. A few years back I added 30 gallons (one trash can) of city compost to each bed, without screening it. Now I am still pulling out weird pieces of debris (sticks, glass, plastic toys). So if you use city compost remember Mels advise of only using well screened compost. I am doing this will all new compost (that I generate) and gradually screening the beds (one square foot at a time when I replant).

FEW HINTS FOR YOUR GARDENING:

It's time to get ready to plant squashes soon. You can prevent squash bugs by planting your squash seeds and sprinkling cedar shavings or chips around them. We finally found this out last year and for the first time in years we had squash. Not only that, we had squash from the first picking in spring until the major freeze came in December FROM THE SAME PLANTS PLANTED IN THE EARLY SPRING! Every plant lived right through and produced squash to keep it plentiful for us and the animals. So put you up some cedar shavings for next years garden and put it around where you plant your seeds this year. You will be amazed!

REMEMBER when planting different squashes, peppers, melon types (cukes, cantaloupe, watermelon, etc) and other closely related plants to not plant them too close together because of cross-pollination. You will have hot sweet peppers, yellow and green squashes, strange melons, etc. Plant as many rows apart as possible or use small raised beds scattered around the house or planting areas to separate these as much as possible. For pure seed you MUST separate similar items as far as possible because of crossing your seeds.

When planting your corn, remember it pollinates the best in 4 row plantings. Shorter rows help in this situation to grow like a square of corn. The breezes and the bees do a much better job this way. Corn that is not fully filled out means poor pollination. Here is also where you hope you have enough bees around. Corn growers hire bee hives to be brought in to pollinate the corn more fully.

Organic Gardening suggests dusting your seeds BEFORE planting to protect them from weevils, etc. Would be great for storage also!!

Some of you have decided to not plant lettuce because of no nutrients. Not so, except in Iceberg lettuce like many of you buy from the grocery store. Your other lettuces have much to offer and home grown has a whole lot to offer!

PEAT MOSS
* Does it help raise the pH of soil? If so, I definitely need to add extra lime because I have fairly acidic soil (5.3).

Peat moss lowers pH a bit, so lime should be added with it
* Does it make soil *spongy*? Or, if so, have I added too much?
Yep. Spongey is good.....:-)

* Does it help soil retain water? If so, does sand then help it to drain better?

Yep. It retains water and allows air to circulate; sand can be in the mix too VERMICULITE / PERLITE
* What is the difference between these? Not so much what they are (tho I'm interested in that), but what they do for soil, or how they perform, or when to use them?

Aeration is their forte; use them in Melsoil, if you make it.

GREENSAND and ROCK PHOSPHATE
* Both add potash, right ?

No. Greensand adds potassium (which is the K in NPK and the important element in potash.) Rock phospate adds phosphorus, the P in NPK.

(what IS potash, anyway)? When would you use one rather than the other? If the greensand bag says 0 - 0 - 0.5, how would you mix that in with, say, blood meal and bone meal?

Greensand is best added to the soil as a long term slow acting source of K and other trace minerals, along with compost and rock phosphate.

Personally I don't use blood meal and bone meal, preferring compost or alfalfa meal as an N source and rock phosphate as a P source if I need one; alfalfa meal at 5-1-2 is a balanced fertilizer and compost is also.

Blood meal is a fast acting N source and bone meal carries some risk of the evil bovine spongioform encephalopathy, aka 'Mad Cow Disease'; I prefer slow and steady in the N-delivery department, and not to support factory farming of animals by buying their by-products.

* Can either of these be used instead of Wood Ash -- ?? And if so, in what amounts / proportions? (I think Mel's soil amendment recipe includes it, but they laughed at me at the garden center when I asked about it. I may have some after this coming winter, but for now, no.)

Wood ash is a concentrated and caustic source of K and some P as well as Calcium, Magnesium and some trace stuff. It should be applied lightly, like talcum powder, and is useful as an insect repellent as well as a nutrient source.

COTTONSEED MEAL What does it do? Fertilizer?

Cottonseed meal is a fertilizer, primarily an N source and useful for acid loving plants like blueberries and azaleas. In my opinion, it is worthwhile to pay extra for organic cottonseed meal, as the other stuff is laden with pesticide residues...

LOL -- Did I say I was a *little* confused?

A good general book on soil is Fertile Soil by Robert Parnes (sorry I don't have the ISBN).

For sources of greensand in Georgia,. I know of Hastings in the Atlanta area, and there must be others including places that will ship it to you....

Question:
I found some old multi vitamins laying around and was about to throw them out when I started thinking that there are a lot of good minerals in these things. So I am wondering if it would be a good idea to stick a couple of vitamins in with my seedlings the next time I plant? I know the levels of these minerals is very low, but it might be enough to give a seedling a good boost. And it would be a nice slow release. The only problem I can think of would be that there may be things in the vitamin the plant would not like (maybe the vitamins are too acidic or something) or that it would be too concentrated in one spot (I could grind them up to get around that).

These vitamins are all natural with no funky artificial fillers. I hate to just throw them out as they are not cheap, but they are too old for me to feel comfortable taking them myself. This may be a stupid idea, but I just thought I would ask before I wasted these things.

Answer:
As they are natural supplements, not synthetic, I think it would be beneficial to add to the soil.

GARDENING NOTE: The data presented is based on our best knowledge and experience as evidenced by newspaper journalists, champion gardeners and word of mouth users. The measurements given are guidelines; results may vary from case to case. We do not assume any liability with regard to success of failure of a given treatment. Epsom Salt is magnesium sulfate and is safe to use on all plants except those in the Sage family. Often, success is found through experimentation with no concrete scientific basing. Epsom Salt has no effect on soil pH and it will not change soil acidity. If you decide to use the product as part of your plant fertilization regime, we offer these guidelines.

Signs of magnesium deficiency: Epsom Salt is magnesium sulfate. Magnesium occurs naturally in soil, though not always in a quantity sufficient for all plants. Some soils start out with sufficient magnesium, but an abundance of rain can cause it to be washed our of the soil. Generally speaking, rough, sandy soil is a sign that the soil is deficient in magnesium. Soils developed from peat bogs and alkaline soils also tend to be magnesium-hungry. And it's been reported that soils along the Atlantic coast tend to a magnesium-deficient. Sulfur is not naturally abundant in soil, though most types of commercially prepared fertilizers contain a sufficient amount. Organic materials such as compost and manure also contain sulfur. A plant that is just a little magnesium-deficient won't grow well. A plant that a greatly deficient will likely have yellowing leaves. The yellowing generally starts on the older leaves first, and then the portions between the vines. Yellowing is also known so chlorosis, and appears as a gradual fading or mottling of the green color.
-- Benefits: Magnesium is critical in the formation of chlorophyll. It's also useful in aiding the absorption of phosphorus, which contributes to growth, flowering and disease resistance. In addition, it helps a plant both absorb and use both nitrogen and phosphorus. Adding Epsom Salt to plants has been reported to enhance the color of blossoms and leaves, promote new flowers and fruit, improve the root system and improve the strength of stems. Epsom Salt is safe to use and will not build up in the soil, even if additional magnesium isn't needed. Epsom Salt for plants (general): Add 2 tablespoons par gallon of water if there are signs of magnesium deficiency. Give to plants a every watering.

Mix: 1 teaspoon of Saltpeter (from a pharmacy); 1 teaspoon of Epsom Salt; 1 teaspoon of baking soda; 1 teaspoon of ammonia; 1 gallon of warm water. Give to plants monthly.
-- For tomatoes: To prevent blossom end rot, add 2 or 3 tablespoons per plant hole before planting. Generally, tomatoes tend to be heavy users of magnesium and have been said to benefit from Epsom Salt. Many users simply add a tablespoon to the hole before they plant. Each month, sprinkle a tablespoon around the base of each plant and scratch into soil.
-- For roses: Sprinkle 1 teaspoon per foot of plant height and spread evenly around the base for better blossoms and deeper greening. Add 1/2 cup sprinkled around the base and then scratched in, for strong production of new flowering canes and healthy new basal cane growth.
-- For lawns: Four pounds for every 2,500 square feet. Use in a spreader or dilute using a hose and spray attachment. Mix: 1 cup Epsom Salt; 1 cup Listerine; 1 cup liquid soap; 1 cup ammonia: 2 cans of beer. Use 1 quart of mixture for every 2,500 square feet of lawn. Apply using a hose and spray attachment.

I think all you need are the "Effective Microorganisms" (an relatively inexpensive but really great mixture) and some organic matter. Look at http://www.emtech.org  or ask directly:
EM TECHNOLOGIES, INC.
1802 W. Grant, Suite 122 -
Tucson, AZ - 85745
Telephone: 520-629-9301 or 800-461-5296
FAX: 520-629-9039 e-mail: :
emtech@azstarnet.com 

( I am no way related with this company. Just know the same product and the good results here in Japan. )

Friedemann
-- Dr. Friedemann Greulich, Hokkaido Univ., Fac. of Agriculture Japan, 060-0809 Sapporo, Kita-ku, Kita 9 Nishi 9 Tel.: (+81-11) 706-3349, Fax: ...-2505, priv. Tel./Fax: 614 3099 e-mail: friede@chem.agr.hokudai.ac.jp 
homepage: http://www.agr.hokudai.ac.jp/bioorg/friede/friede.htm 
privat: http://www.voicenet.co.jp/~friede/fg.htm 
 

Twin mountain rock 1800 270-2694---lava sand (good stuff)
Lonfosco (srp) 1 904 454 1511 crack open your internet yellow pages, should be many supplier local Try your local (if any) ag supply.. there's gotta be a local source.
Several sources of soft rock round NA (North America). some up in Montana/Idaho, I think and "LONfosco" (s.r.p.) is mined in flow-da... cost thru Peacful Valley farm supply (CA) id 8$ a 50 pound sack, not including shipping..

.Ya got any lava sand/paramagnetic mineral/humate suppliers down your way??? I think u do.. thats a good substitute I think ...Wanna mail order, shipping will cost ya big for all those heavy sacks.. For Seaweed," Maxicrop" is primo...Swallow hard when you see the price; it's weel worth it tho.. Yu got black alkali soil or what?? Sulfur will help to soften it; general advice here, to do it right need to study in depth. Too much of anything is a badddd thing, even kelp/compost/s.r.p. Let your keyboard do the walking...

When wet does 4 " of mud build up on bottoms of boots??? Could be high magnesium...Is the soils highly alkaline?? Compost is great for a start.. Personally I pull in all the free pumpkins (for compost) I can every Halloween and straw bales also for mulch, all free.. But, and this is big but, I think you should consider having soil tested for base saturation...What's that u say, aren't all soil tests a bunch of chemical hocus pocus designed to recommend 15-15-15???? Yes most are, but some folks are looking at a bigger picture. You got an acre. That's a lot of (potential) productive garden. If you added some of previously mentioned amendments (rock powders) not the compost, you could cause an even greater imbalance in your land and tie up even more nutrient. That being the case, yu'd be throwing money away.

My suggestion, besides talking to folks who have same land, and/ or county extension agent (with only half an ear) is too have soil test thru someone who knows """""base saturation """"testing methodologies...what's that again. Basically the concentration of elements on the clay . Of primary importance Is Mg. Ca, P, Na (sodium). These 4 REALLY have an affect on soil Ph if I have my ducks in a row. To get a better handle on soil balancing read "Hands ON Agronomy" By Kinsey.. cheap$ paperback thru Acres USA He also has a testing service... He is a world traveled farm advisor, a real big shot (in a good way).. There are other soil testing labs that test based on the Albrecht method as well (kinsey's mentor) If decide to test doesn't have to be Kinsey.....

If you CAN get Mg, Ca, K sorted out ( I think 68%Ca, 12%Mg,3%K(dont quote Me!!)) on the colloid; those figures are rough and have some leeway depending on amount of clay or lack of it.. then your on your way to the start of many bountiful harvests provided .....many other variables here...... Clay soils/bottomland is rich (can be) to be sure, but High Mg and you got gumbo. If you read Kinsey he brings this out. This high imbalance actually has a structural affect; tightens up the soil. If you increase the Ca, the soil Can open up; there's other factors this is dependent on but that's the basic tenet. High Ca (too much) and your tying up stuff again...This goes on and on w/ many other elements as well....One more thing. Think of this as the foundation for all that soil life thriving below...the base saturation of elements on the clay colloid has a great deal of influence on all this biota. so to reassure you I'm not coming at this from a "just the elements Ma'am " approach like hydroponics. Im not.. If u get the soil balanced then your investments/additions of paramagnetic materials and soil enzymes and myco and new age bacteria ....... will have a greater BANG for the buck. Bottom line.. Otherwise u could be shooting into left field for years, wondering why all this neat stuff doesn't work.

SSSSoooo Im suggesting spending some of that money on a good baseline understanding of what u really Need and what u don't need (probably Mg). That way u can hit (hopefully some homeruns.)

The pumpkins make excellent Compost , not a mulch.. They just kinda melt down after a couple months and plus you never have to plant them again..

snail-----Acres po 8800 Metarie LA70011-8800
email----- info@acresusa.com 
ph 504 889-2100

By all means get the soil test.. run my ideas by them bout Albrecht/Kinsey base saturation and maybe their noses will wrinkle. At least they will have a handle on the local soils....... hopefully.

As has been already suggested if one element is in abundance (prolly Mg) then the only way to free it up us thru leaching/ and or dilution via lots of amendment on top to tie it up.. My self I'm raising grade (I've got an abundance of decomposed granite that's still Very solid. Can dynamite be tilled in to leach this!?? haha Plus S sulfur can also be a solution, but, watch out, cause the other 10% in that bag of 90% sulfur that looks like coarse sand, is God knows what (cadmium, lead, can be other heavy metals still in the hazardous waste taken from the plating plant) Get the purest u can get if this turns out to be the recommended route and then make sure that you have a specific recommendation on quantity.. Again this will only work by leaching. Your soil in a few years will be better I'm sure. and w/ S ,a little goes along way soo beee careufllll!.